Prince of Ubud’s Garden, Puri Langon, Sambahan Ubud.

THE PRINCES PALACE

Deknoo waited by the road above the palace, leaning against a battered yellow scooter. The batik draped over his frame gave him the look of another time, another place. He might have stepped out of an old memory or a half-forgotten dream. Together, we walked down the narrow street to the gate, its carvings intricate, its presence imposing. Inside, the prince’s garden stretched out in perfect silence, broken only by the calls of strange birds and the whisper of running water. Sculptures wore red hibiscus, their stone faces watching as ancient frangipani twisted toward the sky. Cobras and dragons guarded the stairway leading to a throne that stood exposed to the open air. Treasure gleamed on the stage, and the carvings above us reached down with clawed fingers. A fish tank, lit by shifting neon, glowed blue, then green, then pink. Inside, fat fish slid lazily against the glass, their patterns as bold as the garden itself.

Ogoh Ogoh (Mythical Monster) created by Deknoo & friends from Abuan Village, Susut Bangli.

Later, Deknoo sat on the steps, humble but always regal in our eyes. We talked as the sun slipped behind the trees, then moved on. He rode his scooter ahead of us, weaving through the traffic in Ubud like a shadow lit by headlights. His shirt, loose and bright, whipped in the wind like a flag. At the edge of town, he left the scooter behind and joined us in the car. We drove deep into the countryside, through rice fields and villages, through black jungle tunnels that swallowed the car whole.

At last, we reached Abuan Village in Susut Bangli. There, in the dim light, we saw the Ogoh-Ogoh. It was immense, its head still hidden beneath the shelter. Only its legs and outstretched arms reached out, grasping at the air. A baby dangled from its jaws, its small legs kicking in grotesque rhythm. Boys moved like shadows at the creature’s feet, arranging lights with quiet care. Deknoo moved among them, his eyes sharp and alive. We shared cigarettes, coffee, and laughter and left, carrying the night and its strange beauty back with us into the dark.